Day 7 - Verona

** Sorry that I didn't continue to post as I went, but internet was sometimes difficult to get and by the end of most nights, I was exhausted!  I'm home now, but will continue to share my trip (in a series of blog posts).  One perk is that the iPad wouldn't let me separate my paragraphs, and here I can.

Today was a full day in Verona - and it has to be one of the prettiest cities/towns in Italy.  Yes, there were tourists, but it was the least touristy place we went (except for Juliet's balcony).  I'll explain more in my recap post.

Our bed-and-breakfast was reasonably comfortable, and I'd stay there again.  The only issue we had (besides poor wifi availability) was the door - it was a door with a really old, old-fashioned lock and key and we struggled to lock it and unlock it.  Sometimes we'd get "home" and just leave it unlocked because it was such a hassle!  Our first morning's breakfast was presided over by the owner's "Zia" - a very adorable old aunt who couldn't speak a lick of English.  I was willing to try Italian, so we chatted - with lots of arm gesture and pointing at maps.  She told me of the best places to see, which was nice to hear from a local.

After we left, we hopped on a Hop-on/Hop-Off bus tour, which was thoroughly enjoyable.  Verona has an amazing mountainous skyline, and this bus tour took us into the mountains for a memorable site at the Sanctuary.  We stopped off there for a while for lunch (with local Verona wine, some of which I brought back with me) and photographs.  The view allowed us to see the medieval city walls, which are very well-preserved.  Back on the bus, we stopped at the Teatro, where we got to climb the usable ruins (the stage was set up for a show that night) and then the Arena, which is known for their amazing operas.  The arena is the best-preserved Roman amphitheater and is still in use today.  That night's performance was "Carmen," which we didn't see because of time and money, but they had the set pieces for the other operas outside.  We saw Juliet's balcony, Aida's Egypt, etc., which was quite nice to see.

We continued all around the city, culminating in a trip to Castlevecchhio, a beautiful castle, and  massive sunburn, but it was totally worth it.   Dinner was in the Plaza d'Erbe, where I tried spaghetti carbonara - and it was one of the best things I ate on the trip - I have to learn how to make it!

In retrospect, Verona is one of the two cities that I wouldn't mind coming back to.  It's peaceful, historical, and manage-able (whereas Rome can be very overwhelming).  I could even see myself owning a small house in the area.

Next post: Bologna.

Ciao!

Days 5 and 6 - Venice and Verona

Day 5 was our last full day in Venice, and I think we accidentally saved the best for last. After waking up early, we wandered to a nearby cafe for a cappuccino and brioche (we call the croissants) and wandered aimlessly to St. Mark's square again for a tour of the Basillica and it's treasures. I tempted fate and wore capri jeans, which was a good bet because the weather calmed down a bit (or maybe I was just getting used to it). At first glance, the ceilings are filled with paintings; further examination discovers them to not be paintings at all, but intricate mosaics, some even filled with gold leaf. The effect is awe-inspiring. It's the largest church in Venice and is attached to the Doge's Palace since the government and state became basically one (more on that later). One interesting thing about Venice, which I mentioned earlier, is that their is a lot of uneven-ness in the flooring/sreets due to the stilts. The floors of St. Mark's follow that concept and can be tricky to manuever at times - don't wear high heels! After St Mark's, Jamie and I had time to get some more photos and just wander around (with the omnipresent gelato in our hands). After a short trip to the Royal Gardens, we took a tour of the Doge's palace. I've been to Versailles and Hampton Court Palace, but this palace outshines them all in human innovation. The largest room, where the Doge held court with his Council of Ten, is the widest palatial room in the world at the time without supporting beams. The grandeur of the building is astonishing, considering when it was built. We learned a great deat about Venetian history and realized why Venetians were so proud - theirs is a country without a riot (ever), their Doge never had complete power (he ruled with a council), the Doges were elected late in life to prohibit take-overs (and were viciously killed when attempted to do so) and remained independent from their split with Constantinople all the way up to Napoleon's conquest. They ruled the sea and showered the city with symbols of lions, St. Mark, Jupiter, Mars, and Neptune to remind them of that. Last bit of random info: Venetian Renaissance painters mostly painted blonde women because they focused on painting light. Really, I am so filled with information and I cannot wait to come home and make powerpoints/presentations for my students. After a much-needed nap, we finally ventured out to see what the city looked like a night. Grabbing some fresh fruit (abundant here!), we discovered a little wine bar on on the other side of the Rialto Bridge - people ordered wine and wandered away with it in the piazza and drank it at the leisure. Very Italian. We then found a farmer's market that was closing, and vowed to return. This morning, Day 6, started at the Farmer's Market. We saw such an abundant array of fresh fruits, veggies, and fish! Octopus, squid, huge scampi, cuttlefish, and a variety of fish both familiar and strange. And the meat! Jamie didn't enjoy looking at it, but it was so fresh that heads and tails and feet were still on some of them (like the rabbit and goose). Next time I come to Italy, I'm renting and apartment so I can shop at the market and cook. We then took a short train ride to Verona. Honestly, all I knew of Verona was what Shakespeare wrote and that it has the best preserved Roman ruins north of Rome. I didn't realize the beauty of the scenery - bustling piazzas surrounded by towers and churches, with the Italian mountains in the background filled with palazzos and city walls. We went to Juliet's House, which is a big tourist attraction. We weren't expecting much, just a cheesy balcony that is touristy and fiction. But we didn't realize that it is also a museum inside of a 15th century house. It held pieces of 15th and 16th century furniture and move memorbilia (costumes and the bed from Zepherelli's version), but the layout of the house was the intriging part. Small rooms built more upward than out, small fireplaces in most rooms, wooden stairs and windows overlooking the vista. The outside, however, is a sharp contrast. Lovers for years have scribbled their names all over the walls and bricks, locks meant to secure lovers' fates adorn a chain-length fence and tree, and a statue of Juliette sits proudly in the courtyard holding court. Unfortunately, she gets molested every 10 seconds because apparently rubbing her breast for luck is tradition (hence her breasts are the shiniest parts of her statue)) and tourists from all over the world grab her boob and smile for the camera. In fact, we passed by a souvenir shop selling magnets in the shape of her right breat. Odd. For lunch, I finally got risotto - and it was very enjoyable. I haven't decided whether or not to embrace my inner Anthony Bordain and try horsemeat stew, but I'm contemplating it - I am trying to immerse myself in the culture. I don't know. But outside our table area was a nice piece of Roman ruins - the modern streets was torn away to reveal the Roman street underneath. Again, awe-inspiring, just like the church visits that followed. My proudest moment (or maybe not) was climbing the Tower. Jamie took the elevator, but I wanted to prove myself and took the stairs. I didn't realize at the time that it was more than 10 flights of stairs. And exhausting. I was a huffing, puffing mess by the time I finished and was epecting to hear the "Rocky" theme music, but alas it didn't enter. Instead, I was rewarded with a breathtaking view of the area, complete with the Roman Arena and the walls of the city. I want to come back and spend more time here. Ciao!

Days Three and Four - Venice

Yesterday morning we arrived in Venice and realized quickly how different Venice is. First of all, air conditioning and hot showers aren't as important, wifi was difficult to obtain, and my hotel didn't like my calling card (or so I think). But after acknowledging the above, we're having a pretty pleasant time. I realized that I packed incorrectly. I shouldn't have packed pants. I've been rewearing the same dress and skirt (after washing them in the sink) because it's so hot. The next time I come to Italy in the summer I'll bring more dresses (which will make my suitcase lighter anyway). So, what about Venice? It's wonderful, despite the differences and little issues. As soon as Jamie and I disembarked the train, we were thrown into this world of beauty, innovation, and architecture. Very different from Milan and Rome, Venice has quite an Byzantium influence, as we recognized from some of the designs on the houses. I personally am enthralled with the random, small window dressings and statues of the Virgin Mary that pop up, reminding us of the Catholic history in this country. Venice is steeped in tradition, and is an interesting mix of old and new. Gondoliers are everywhere, and yes, I did take one. But gondolas are quite interesting - they are perfectly symmetrical, must be steered carefully so as to not tip over, cost 25,000-40,000 euros a piece, only 5 people in Venice make gondolas, and gondoliers must attend 5 years of training. While they are neat to watch, they are merely for entertaining trips and not for practical travel. We've been using their waterbus system, which is just as good as a canal tour -taking the number 1 is the best way to see the canal and thus both sides of Venice. Some things about Venice are perplexing, such as the number of dogs we see versus the amount of grass we don't see (they have a few parks, but not really near the center). Such as how Italians don't understand the loveliness of airconditioning. Such as how there seem to be little connection to what's going on - we haven't seen newspapers or magazines (hardly) and advertisements are pretty scarce. It's a nice difference from America who thrives on media. If we didn't have internet, we'd have no idea what's going on in the world. It's much more relaxed over here. Yesterday we took a guided walking tour, learning about the layouts and basic history. We learned, for example, that the wood underneath the city (the woood that holds the city up) are piece of pine that the saltwater petrified. Some places of the city are uneven and "leaning," but they balance each other. The city streets are extremely complex and difficult to follow, but we were told that even Venetians are confused easily! Last night we decided to partake in some local cuisine, but found the serve wanting. In fact, many others in the restaurant were complaining as much as we were, but I can't tell if it's just poor service or the Italy-Spain Eurocup game was just too much for the waitstaff. Nevertheless, we won't go again, despite the fact that I loved their gnocchi. Today we took a pretty easy day - we went to the nearby islands of Murano and Burano. Murano (which has the only cemetery nearby, and we did see a motorboat hearse) is known for their glass, and is it every impressive. Many furnaces and artisans enjoy tourists watching them, and they display their goods in stores all over. I wanted to take so much of it home, but feared breakage. I settle for a few pieces of jewelry that will last and remind me of the beautiful work I saw. We then stopped for some more local cuisine - where I had cuttlefish in a black ink sauce and polenta. It was very good - and very strange at the same time. I love trying new and local foods. Burano was an extremely pleasant surprise. We didn't plan on going, but a friend recommended it the other day. We disembarked the water bus to an island that was a cross between Charleston, the Bahamas, Mexico, and Venice. Tightly packed houses were brightly colored (almost neon at times) with colorful curtains covering their doors. Older ladies hand made lace (famous in Burano) in little circles and shops. I did buy some lace there, and the artistry is beautiful. I watched a woman make lace, and was just amazed with her patience and skill. It's such a differences from living in country where technology and newness is important. Burano plays to the tourists, but its charm remains in the past. Next time I come to Italy, I will come back to Burano because it really is that moving. Tomorrow we tour again - St. Mark's Basillica and the Doge's palace. We walked so much and spent so much time in the sun that we're turning in early tonight. I can't wait for tomorrow's tours - more history! Ciao!